A really quick fireplace upgrade that will save you a fortune

A really quick fireplace upgrade that will save you a fortune

When we moved in to our house we knew that we would need to put in a lot of time, effort and money to upgrading what was there. We didn’t buy a total refurb job, we looked at them and decided it would be too much, especially given we were in the very early weeks of pregnancy at the time. So instead we bought a 1990s house that had been carelessly looked after and had barely seen a lick of paint in decades bar the occasional pot of magnolia gloss being slapped on anything from walls to woodwork to ceilings…yes, ceilings! And artex ones too!

One room that needed little immediate care and attention was the living room. Don’t get me wrong, all the woodwork needs painted, the walls too, the metalwork like light switches and handles need changed, and a whole host of other small things. But at least it was fairly neutral and the artex ceiling had been plastered so decorating the living room is low down on the list of priorities. However, one thing that really stood out and totally ruined the whole room was the fireplace. The surround was a very dark moulded wood, it had decoupage mouldings on the front top corners, the fireplace detail was brass and the marble surround was a weak beige colour.

Original 1990s fireplace
The original 1990s fireplace was an eyesore in the very neutral room we inherited

I decided to paint the fireplace instead of replacing it as depending on the fireplace and surround we bought, the total cost would have been £500 at a minimum rising to thousands depending on how new, modern or fancy the items we picked were. Painting on the other hand we could do for a few ten pound notes handed over at our local B&Q.

  1. First I prised off those moulded details from the top right hand corners which were held in place by thin pins. I just used a scraper to gently wiggle behind them and gradually ease them away from the surround.
  2. Then I gave the full fireplace a gentle sand just to remove any top shine from the stain. After sanding I wiped it all down with a clean damp cloth to pick up any dusty residues.
  3. I was all ready to tape up the brass fire area with rolls of plastic dust sheets and frog tape, only to discover as I went to begin that the brass bits simply pull away. This meant I could spray paint them in the garage rather than worrying about the living room carpet and furniture.
  4. I cleaned down the brass bits and then raised them off of the garage floor in order to spray them more evenly round the sides.

    Prerparing brass fire for spray painting
    I propped up the brass items off the floor using old paint cans
  5. I used a high heat resistant paint I picked up from B&Q
    Rustoleum Stove and BBQ paint
    This paint is perfect for a fire surround as it is safe for extremely high temperature exposure.

    6. I sprayed the brassy bits all over and left to dry while I went back through to paint the surround.

    spray painting a brass fire
    The spray painting took only a few minutes and dried overnight

    7. I gave the fireplace surround 3 coats of Rustoleum chalk paint in Chalk White. As you can see, I had run out of frog tape so I used masking tape to mask off the walls, hearth and marble surround. Masking tape definitely isn’t as good at protecting your painted walls, but I wasn’t too fussed because we plan on decorating the walls soon anyway. And, it’s better than nothing.

    8. Once dry, I popped the freshly painted and no long brass bits back in place, and voila! Just like that, it was done. Months of procrastinating and the fireplace was done in an evening!

    Painted fireplace
    This cost me £9 in total would you believe!!!

    The total cost was only £9…the price of a tin of spray paint. I already had masking tape, and I already had some chalk white chalk paint left over from when I upcycled shelves (See how I did that here). So I think was definitely a better option than replacing the fire altogether, don’t you??

Covering up your boiler to make your room feel more furnished

Covering up your boiler to make your room feel more furnished

We have the oldest, crankiest boiler in the world. But, for as long as it still heats our house safely and (fairly) effectively then I am happy to make do and mend until such time as we have the finances to afford to replace it. However, not only is the boiler old and cranky, it is also very ugly indeed. Years of age have stained it yellow and brown, it is covered in the old stubborn marks of stickers and labels that have decorated it over the years, and it really was such an eyesore in my lovely fresh utility room. So cover it I must!

The original utility room and its old stained boiler
The original utility room and its old stained boiler

I researched online for ideas on how to cover it and although I saw lots of great ideas involved blocking it in, using cool blackboard doors, and hiding it with kitchen cupboards, none of these were going to work for me because of the size, position and shape of the boiler. Where it is restricts me from using a cupboard style covering because we wouldn’t be able to access it for repairs and maintenance. So I came up with an alternative idea I thought would work wonders for us, and could do for you. And not only that, it was so cheap!!!

Shopping List

  • U or L shape shower curtain pole set. I got one from Dunelm Mill for around £15 that came with 3 rods, 2 corner inserts, 2 straight inserts, and 2 wall attachments. I can’t see it on their website (despite only getting it a few weeks ago) so I have used this image here from Argos instead where they are selling something very similar (but including a shower curtain too) for around £25. I would recommend trying out Home Bargains or B&M as I think this is exactly the sort of thing they would stock. For this project I used 2 rods, 1 corner insert and the 2 wall brackets.
    U Shaped Adaptable Shower Rail Set
    U Shaped Adaptable Shower Rail Set. For this project I used 2 poles, the wall brackets and one corner insert


  • 2 wall plugs and 3 screws. I used normal 5mm wall plugs rather than big heavy duty plasterboard ones because the weight of the pole is so very light. However, you should choose the wall plugs and screws that suit the wall you are hanging this on to.
  • One curtain to the width and length required. I got a dunelm curtain in the sale for £10. What a bargain! I bought a curtain in a nice light fabric so that heat from the boiler did not become trapped behind it. Also, the lighter the curtain, the less stress on the pole.



  • Saw
  • Drill with suitable drill bit for the screws/wall plugs you are using
  • Measuring Tape
  • Pencil
  • Screwdriver (to fit the screws you have chosen to use)
  • Probably a step ladder if your boiler is wall mounted as high as mine


How To

  • Measure the width and depth of your boiler so you know how long to cut your poles down to. I needed one pole at 35cm, and one at 50cm. Remember to add on some breathing space so your curtain is not pulled tight against the boiler, I allowed for a few extra centimetres on each pole.

    Measuring up the boiler
    I measure out from the wall with the back door on it (31cm), and then out from the wall on the right (43cm)
  • Using the saw, cut the 2 poles to the required length. I cut mine to 35cm and 50cm. Then connect them using the corner shaped insert, and push the two wall brackets on to either end until you have a nice neat L-shaped pole.
  • Hold the pole up to the wall round the boiler and using your pencil, mark the points where your screws will go through. Each wall bracket on my pole had 3 screw holes, so I had 3 marks made on each wall.

    Marking your pilot holes
    I made 3 marks on each wall where the screws would go and used a 5mm drill bit to create pilot holes
  • Using the appropriate drill bit for your chosen screws and plugs, drill a pilot hole into the wall where you have made your marks.
  • Insert your wall plugs into the pilot holes.
  • Now, take the wall brackets back off your pole and screw the them into position.

    Brackets on the wall
    After I inserted the wall plugs into the pilot holes, I used my screwdriver to attach the wall brackets to the wall
  • Thread your curtain onto the pole (I used an eyelet curtain to save any faffing with pencil pleats and to avoid the need for curtain rings.)
  • Push your pole, holding the curtain, into the wall brackets.
Bye bye ugly boiler
I slid the curtain onto the pole, and pushed the curtain pole into the wall brackets


And, voila, all done! It looks so much better than before, don’t you think?!?!

Before and After:



Additional Note:

Not while hanging this curtain, but when I was hanging the door curtain, I drilled into the wall to make pilot holes for wall brackets and drilled straight into the electrics. Be careful! There will be a lot of plumbing and electrics around your boiler, especially if it is situated in a utility room or kitchen. We use a stud finder device we got on Amazon for around £20 to detect for electrics and pipes etc before we drill any holes in the wall now. I’m not convinced it is 100% accurate, but I do think it is better than using nothing at all!

For this project:

Our stud finder detected something behind the wall to the left of the boiler, so we used no more nails and glued a block of wood to the wall into which we then made our pilot holes and attached our curtain pole. Just sand the wood down on each side, paint it on the visible sides the same colour as your walls, and then glue into place following the product instructions. Ensure your screws are long enough to go through the block of wood and just into the wall but not all the way through the plasterboard. Arguably its not as neat as going straight into the wall itself, but the curtain covers it up anyway, and its a whole lot safer than burning your house down or electrocuting yourself!

Prepping your woodwork: my 5 top tips

Prepping your woodwork: my 5 top tips

Painting woodwork is the arsiest of all home décor tasks. There’s just so much of it…and it has all those little nooks and crannies and moulded bits…and you need to worry about paint spreading in multiple directions…down on to your flooring, up on to your walls, over onto your plug points and handles! What a headache.

However, it goes without saying that refreshing your woodwork is so worth it afterwards because what a difference it makes to the look and feel of a room.

When we moved in to our house in November we knew we would have so much woodwork to do…basically all of it. Our previous owners had not only not kept on top of their woodwork, they had also painted it gloss magnolia at some point in the distant past, magnolia which has stained even yellower over time. Gross.

So far, the only woodwork I have done has been in the utility room and in the new bedroom…which I am yet to reveal…however, just because you are special I will share with you now my top tips for managing your woodwork upgrade before I share the overall room with you.

  1. Use an electric sander

This is especially true if, like us, you have more than one door in your room. We had 4: entry, en suite, 2 x wardrobe doors. Or, if like us, you know that this is not the only room you’re going to tackle. You can pick these up fairly cheap and use with a medium grain sandpaper when removing top shine from glossed woodwork. It took us about 3 hours to do the whole room and all hovering etc afterwards using an electric sander. It doesn’t quite manage the most detailed and moulded of skirting boards, but those bits you can just go over manually.

Sanded Woodwork
I used an electric sander to take the sheen and grime off of the woodwork which was painted in gloss magnolia


2. Sand, but don’t worry about revealing the true wood underneath

If you are going to paint your wood again, this is true. However, obviously if you want natural wood skirting boards then ignore this tip. Most importantly you want to remove the top shine and grime from your woodwork so your new paint can stick to it. Do not underestimate the importance of sanding your woodwork. I forgot to sand one of the doors in the utility and paint just would not stick to it at all. I ended up having to give the door 4 coats!! The best way to know you’ve sanded enough is to use your fingers to touch the surface, if it feels slick then it needs a further wee rub, if it feels slightly rough or textured, then you’re good to go.

One coat of paint
Left door has had one coat of satinwood following sanding. Right door has just been sanded. There is already a massive difference.


3. Use polythene dust sheets in your wardrobes

That dust gets everywhere, and don’t assume otherwise! Our wardrobes are fitted and the doors are stiff and tight and nearly impossible to open, and yet that dust managed to seep through crevices and work its way all over the contents of the wardrobe. Damon bought a roll of polythene sheeting and I should have pulled off  a length and draped it over the clothing inside the wardrobe. Learn from my mistake people! Protect your threads!

4. Use Frog Tape

I pride myself on being a good ‘cutter inner’. I have an innate ability to draw straight lines and find it therapeutic to cut in and paint straight lines with clean white satinwood. However, because I am pregnant and was struggling on my hands and knees to get the woodwork done comfortably, I decided to use frog tape for the first time and ever. Oh holy moly. Why oh why have I never used this stuff before?! I know people go on about how good it is, but I honestly never thought that would apply to me and my OCD straight line painting. It does! No straight line is as crisp as a frog tape straight line. Get all over it people! And, it is soooooo much faster if you take the time to frog tape your carpet too because then you just whack the paint on willy nilly without needing to be cautious on either side of your skirting boards. Frog tape = time saving = more time for tea and cake when painting is done! 🙂

Frog Tape for woodwork
Frog Tape, even for a good ‘cutter inner’ like me, is an absolute saviour!!!

5. Daylight Bulbs

I cannot underplay this tip…it might come last on my list but only because I want to go out with a flash…of daylight! If, like me, you have a job, or children, then you find yourself using your precious evenings and nights to do these painting jobs in the house. Cue winter woes, when the light starts to fail at 3pm in the afternoon and you can’t even see what you are doing. I bought some daylight bulbs from Wilko’s, removed the lampshades from the lamps and hey presto, its like painting in the sunshine except without the overbearing heat. This is invaluable for ensuring you have a good even coverage on your first coat, because get that right and only 2 coats should be needed, saving you time and money on that oh so expensive paint. Would you believe that this photo was taken by the light of a daylight bulb and not natural daylight itself?

Fresh clean woodwork makes all the difference to a decorated room





Removing a radiator from the wall to decorate behind it: easy peasy instructions

Removing a radiator from the wall to decorate behind it: easy peasy instructions

I don’t want anybody thinking that I am such an OCD painter that I take radiators off of walls willy nilly to paint behind them, every time I decorate. I only do it when it’s completely necessary. In this case, I was starting to upgrade the utility room and discovered that the previous owners had painted straight onto plasterboard which was causing all of the paint work to peel off in strips. It was peeling down behind the radiator too and I knew I was going to have to remove it in order to prep the walls adequately before painting them again.

I should say from the beginning that I am not a trained plumber…in fact, I am not any kind of plumber…and therefore anything I share here today is not reviewed or confirmed by someone who knows better than me. However, what I can say is that when I watched video tutorials online on how to do this before trying for myself, they were all done by tradesmen called things like ‘Steve’ wearing tool belts round their waists and using terms like ‘ratchet wrench’ and ‘lockshield valve’, none of which made me feel remotely confident about being able to achieve this all by myself. So, I wanted to write this content up because if I could do this, then really anybody can. I have roped my Damon in to help me take some photos so you might see some ‘man hands’ in the photos at some points. And, one of the nuts was so tight I just couldn’t manage it by myself, neither of us could, so at one point Damon had to hold a pipe steady while I put my body weight behind a wrench. But that’s the only time I had assistance.

  1. Turn off the valves going into and out of your radiator. We don’t have thermostatic valves, so for us this meant pulling off the white cap from the valve:IMG_20180121_094144.jpgand then using a pair of pliers turned the valve clockwise until it won’t turn any more which indicates it is turned off.IMG_20180121_094128
  2. Once both valves are off there will be no more water entering or leaving the radiator, however, the radiator will still have water inside it and this will need drained out before you lift it clean off the wall. You need to pop a pot or tub underneath the valve on each side of the radiator because once you start to loosen the nuts water can start dripping immediately.
  3. Then you can start to loosen the nuts that connect the radiator to the pipes:IMG_20180121_094229Look how old and dusty and horrible these are…it was no wonder I couldn’t turn this with the strength of only one person, but hopefully yours aren’t so ancient. We used an adjustable spanner, which is the kind with a little roller on it to make the spanner size bigger or smaller depending on the size of your nut, to place round the nut.IMG_20180121_094253 (*by the way, I found out this was called a union nut…the one between the feeder pipe and your radiator*).
  4. You also need a tool to hold on to the vertical pipe at the same time as you try to loosen the nut…if you storm ahead and start trying to loosen the nut with the spanner without applying counter pressure, you run the risk of damaging the feeder pipe. I used a grip wrench which is like an extra strong wrench designed to grip onto things and keep them held still…it has a handle on it that clicks into place to hold something tight:IMG_20180121_094320
  5. Once these are in place, hold onto the gripping wrench (or your chosen tool) to keep the feeder pipe nice and steady and to loosen the nut on the inlet side of your radiator, turn the nut down towards the floor. To loosen the nut at the other side of the radiator pull your nut up towards the ceiling.
  6. When the nut gives, you can down tools and just use your fingers to loosen it the rest of the way. Water may start to leak and drip immediately, but if it doesn’t don’t be tempted to pull the radiator to the side to start releasing it, it may well gush and spit everywhere.IMG_20180121_143339 Instead use a radiator key to open the valve at the top of the radiator and allow some air into the system.IMG_20180121_100226As soon as air gets into the radiator, the flow of it will push out the water at the bottom and you will notice your bowl/pot start to fill up much faster.
  7.  Once the water stops dripping, repeat the process at the other side of the radiator. There will likely be hardly any water at this side because most will have drained already.IMG_20180121_100251
  8. And, you’re basically done. Make sure both nuts are fully loosened and detached from the piping and then you can lift your radiator off the brackets. Be careful!! Because even if you use radiator inhibitor, there will almost certainly still be some horrid black gunge at the bottom of the radiator which hasn’t drained out. Tilt the radiator slightly over one of the bowls/tubs/pots and allow the last of the watery content from inside to come out before setting aside.

How to create your own copper detail shelving

How to create your own copper detail shelving

When we moved in to our house, the previous owners did as most sellers do and left us some little bits and pieces that they didn’t want to take with them to their new home. These included some lush UV-marked curtains covered in cat hair, some desirable ‘doctors surgery blue’ vertical blinds, and some instaworthy pine shelves with splinter-giving brackets. We were such lucky lucky buyers.

The shelves were still hung for us all over one wall of what is now Evie’s room, there were about 8 of them hung one above the other and all different distances apart, I can only imagine this was a deliberate interior design move to create some visual interest on what was otherwise a bland blue wall. Interestingly enough, the doctors surgery blue vertical blinds weren’t in the doctors surgery blue room…the room instead had the wine red cat hair curtains in it.

Anyway, the point is, we took all the shelving down to get Evie’s room done and I decided that in order to try and save a few bob in this massive money pit of a house I would upcycle the pine into something I could use elsewhere in the house. I wanted some shelves in the dining room, and so the copper leaf idea was born. All the items I got for the shelf cost about £12 because I already had paint brushed and some things around the house. 8 copper shelves for £12 isn’t bad, is it?!

Shopping list

  • old, crappy, basic wooden shelf of your choosing
  • white chalk paint (I already had Rustoleum chalk white paint in the house so I just used this. I reckon you could use any paint suitable for wood surfaces though)

    Rustoleum Chalk Paint in Chalk White
    Rustoleum Chalk Paint in Chalk White
  • Sandpaper (I used fine sandpaper)
  • Size (I discovered that this is the name given to the special glue that is used for doing leafing.) I used Windsor & Newton Japan Gold Size, an oil based adhesive that I was able to get cheap on Amazon Prime.

    Japan Gold
    Japan Gold size, specially formulated for copper/gold leafing
  • Copper leaf. I used a copper effect leaf as opposed to real copper. The argument is that real copper has more lustre, but I think my faux stuff looks wonderfully lustrous. It cost me about £3 from Amazon prime again.
  • A leafing brush…surprise surprise also from Amazon Prime.

    Leafing brush
    Leafing brush, a few pounds from Amazon
  • A small thin paint brush for applying the size
  • A larger paint brush for applying your paint
  • You might want to consider using an old dust sheet too because the copper leaf remnants do go everywhere. I was a wild child and didn’t bother for the leafing part and relied on my trusty Vax instead, but I did put something down to protect the carpet while painting.


  • Sand your shelf and brackets all over. I always wondered what the point was with this, but have ultimately discovered that its kind of like when you get your gel nail polish done…the base needs prepped and all oils, shininess and stains removed so that the paint sticks better. It also removes any scabby bits that can cause splinters.

    Sand your shelf
    Sand your shelf so the surface is prepped for painting
  • Paint your shelf and brackets with your chosen paint. I did three coats on the shelf and only 2 on the brackets…god knows why the brackets needed less, but it worked for me. I wanted a more ‘shabby’ finish so I used a paint brush for everything, but if you want your shelf paint finish to be really smooth then use a small roller on the large flat bits.

    Paint your shelf
    I painted my shelf with Rustoleum chalk paint
  • I wanted a very random and uneven finish from my copper leaf as opposed to a straight parallel stripe, so I will explain how I applied my size (glue, remember?!) to achieve that look. If you want a crisper edge then I would recommend marking your area to be leafed with frog tape. That stuff is heaven sent.
  • Using your small paint brush, apply a generous layer of size all down the middle of the shelf. Then simply squiggle your brush back and forth over that stripe to drag the glue out on each side in a very random wishy washy pattern. The glue will taper out towards the edges and be uneven and thinner in places, but this is good as it will add to the shabbiness of the finished look.
    Apply Japan Gold size
    Use small paint brush to apply generous stripe of size

    Uneven application of size
    You can see the unevenness of the size application at the edges
  • Japan Gold size is tacky and ready to apply leaf to within 20 mins. Use your knuckle to press lightly on the sized area. If it makes a little clicky sound when you lift it off it is ready to apply your leaf, if it is still wet and smooth to the touch it needs a bit longer to get sticky. You only have 30 minutes maximum to work with it before it dries fully, so move fast as soon as you know your shelf is tacky enough to go.
  • Then, apply your sheets of copper leaf along the glued area. They will need to overlap slightly so you don’t miss any glued bits out. Don’t worry if they get a bit folded and crumpled, this is what we want.

    Copper leaf application
    Apply sheets of copper leaf all over the glued area, overlapping them slightly
  • Once the glued area is all covered, use your soft brush to brush down the leaf, sticking it firmly to all tacky areas. There will be lots of bits that don’t stick because the glue isn’t on that bit of the shelf, as you brush over these areas the leaf will lift off and disperse, eventually making a big fat mess of your carpet (enter, the Vax!)
Brush down the leaf
Once you brush the leaf down, it will remain stuck to the areas with glue and will brush off the rest of the shelf
  • Then, all you need to do is flip the shelf over and do the same thing on the bottom. After all, once your shelf is hung it is as likely that you will be able to see the bottom of it as the top.
  • You can choose to seal your shelf with either an easy spray sealer, or by applying Japan Gold all over the leafed bit again. I decided not to because I want to shabbiness to continue and if little bits of leaf wear off this can only be a good thing.

Finished Shelf

Copper Shelf
Finished copper shelf

How to hang THAT mirror from The Range

How to hang THAT mirror from The Range

I think what the title of this post should be is ‘how to hang THAT mirror from The Range (you know, that ginormous ridiculously heavy one?!) when you have crappy plasterboard walls’ but that seemed too long to be reasonable!

I’m sure any interior junkie will know exactly what mirror I am talking about, but, in case you don’t follow every interiors account worth following on Instagram, then basically I am referring to a large arched window mirror from The Range home shop made from ivory painted metal, see pic below…

The Range Mirror
Ivory Metal Window Mirror from The Range

Hanging this mirror is no small task…it measures 115cm (h) by 85cm (w), and weighs in at a whopping 12kg (roughly…I used my bathroom scales to weigh it and I tell myself every day that they are wrong. VERY WRONG. VERY REGULARLY.) Not only that, but it wasn’t until I actually went to hang it yesterday that I realised there is only one fixation point on the back of the mirror, in the middle at the very top of the arch. Yes, my friends, you read that right, ONE fixation point for this humungous 12kg metal mirror.

So, how did I do it? I’m not going to lie, the final hanging of above gigantuan mirror was only achieved after multiple mega bitch fits, documented through the whatsapp videos I sent my other half during the ordeal for him to view while he sat relaxing round a table at his friend’s house playing games and having lots of fun and banter. I say that as if I was annoyed at him for not being there to help me during my crisis, and yes, I was. However I would have been equally annoyed if he was actually at home to offer a hand because the feminist sirens would have been alerting inside my brain complaining about how having ovaries does not mean I am incapable of hanging a mirror on my own. Even though this is no ordinary mirror. Irrational? Maybe. The point is, I did it. I hung that mirror with zero assistance from anyone except the inner sane not-pregnant version of me who was responsible for ensuring I didn’t fling the hunk of junk down the stairs mid bitch fit number 3.

So, I repeat, how did I do it?

First of all, ignore your boyfriend’s advice to hang it from hooks/fixings/nails fitted into the studs of the wall and trust your own instinct. Honestly, he even went to the extent of buying a stud finder. I used the stud finder to find the studs, mark my points for fixings, and then tried to drill in to said stud and the below happened…


Go back to your own plan, which was pretty flawless to begin with and just stick to that. If you don’t you will end up with multiple unnecessary holes in your wall. Trust me. My plan was to use the surface of a chest/shelf below the mirror to help support the weight and to use the wall plugs and wall fixings to offer additional support and balance. Perfect plan. So I have the IKEA Hemnes Shoe Cabinet for our hallway, but any chest of drawers or shelf, as long as it is anchored to the wall with the help of some plugs and screws, would work just fine.

Measure from the bottom of the mirror to the bottom of the horizontal bar running along the back of the mirror. It measured 57cm exactly on mine so I’m guessing will be the same on yours. Then measure from the top surface of your chest/shelf 57cm up the wall and make a mark. I did this twice, about 30cm to each side of centre. But if you wanted to be extra careful, you could do it 3 times: centre, 30cm to the left and 30cm to the right.

Measuring the height of the fixing points
The fixings needed to go 57cm on the wall

Use an 8mm drill bit to drill a pilot hole into the plasterboard where you’ve made your marks. If you have different colours of drill bit, use the black ones, they’re the strongest.

Buy some heavy duty plasterboard wall plugs. These are kind of like big fat wall plugs with wings on the side of them. Once they are in place the wings “spread out” on the back of the plasterboard wall to stop the plug ever slipping out. Hammer these wall plugs into the pilot holes you’ve made with the 8mm drill bit.

Heavy Duty Plasterboard Wall Plugs
Heavy Duty Plasterboard Wall Plugs

I used 5mm screws and screwed them in to the wall plugs. The screws were the same length as the wall plugs so that when I screwed them in they didn’t quite go all the way and had about 5mm left sticking out from the plug. Then I hung my mirror by hanging the horizontal bar on the back of the mirror on to the two screws and resting the base of the mirror on the shelf of the Hemnes chest.

The Range Mirror on Hemnes Cabinet
The Range mirror rests on the Hemnes shelf

Ta daaaaaa! Owned it. #gettingmydrillon

You’re going to need to ignore the decor in these pictures. Clearly it’s not of my own design. I had ripped a squinty dado rail off the wall earlier that day to discover a lovely glue-stained blue stripe underneath.